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February 5, 2009...11:46 am
Cork vs. Screw Cap
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Keeping wine potable and tasty has been a preoccupation of wine-makers and consumers alike since the first grape was fermented. For the last several hundred years however one material has reigned supreme as the stopper of repute for keeping wine fresh and allowing it to grow with time: cork.
Cork is the stopper of choice for the majority of VQA quality wine produced in Ontario. However, it does not enjoy exclusive use or support among Ontario producers. Many wineries mix their cork offerings with that of the often maligned screw-cap or twist off. The screw cap and the cork each bring different elements to the storing and cellaring of wine.
True cork comes from the bark of the Cork Oak tree which primarily grows in southwestern Europe. The majority of the cork used to seal bottles of wine comes from Portugal in groves grown for this purpose. For more information see the Wikipedia entry: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cork_(material)
One of the major differences between a screw cap and cork involves the passage of oxygen into the wine itself. While the goal of any closure is to keep the wine in the bottle the screw cap does so hermetically and there is zero transmission of oxygen into wine. While this is still a debated point, generally, a natural cork allows for some oxygen to circulate into the wine and this does aid in successful aging. However, this point must be balanced against the waste ratio found in cork sealed bottles. By some estimates as many as 1 in 10 bottles are ‘off’ or ‘corked’ when opened due to a variety of factors, but mostly improper storage and too much oxygen into the wine. This does not happen with a screw cap or twist off as there is a impermeable barrier between wine and air. By extension this means that screw cap bottles do not suffer this problem. It is for this reason that Flat Rock Cellars became Ontario’s first winery to exclusively use screw cap bottles as spoilage is greatly reduced.
Screw Cap wine of choice: Flat Rock Cellars ‘07 Pinot Noir
I have tried a number of vintages of Flat Rock Pinot Noir and it impresses each and every time. I tried (and purchased!) this particular vintage at the Winery last weekend and it is drinking very well, is quite fruit forward and has a slight earthy characteristic. This wine will age well and only get better with time.
Therefore when choosing your next bottle of Ontario’s finest, do not shy away from a screw cap, (as long as its VQA) as it is what’s inside the bottle that counts. While cork has a certain ascetic and ritualistic quality which I feel a screw cap can never quite replace, this does not preclude quality wine coming in a bottle with a screw top. You know what they say: never judge a wine by its closure…
~Vintages
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Tags: Niagara, VQA, Flat Rock, Pinot Noir
Two wine thematics are at work in the latest Vintages release today. One is southern France. Well, only one of these was truly worthy. Cazes' L'Excellence de Triniac 2005 (#103689, $16.95, 90) brims with finessed smoke, violets and cassis.
But 17 other reds from that region rated only 83 to 88.
Then there's a less populous Sicilian offering also based on a Vintages call-out to wine agents where they winnow down the best. The best Sicilian red is Spadafora Schietto 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (#111831, $42.95, 90) but it's way overpriced. The rest from Sicily rated 84 to 88, the most common fault being a stewed, pruney overripeness. However, the Cusumano Insolia white reviewed below is gorgeous and great value.
It reminded me of a moment of discovery a decade ago. It was on a trip to VinItaly, the giant wine fair in Verona, at which I tasted 20 of the best Sicilian wines. Like the Cusumano, they were marvellous.
Tuscany is represented today by two iconic reds, Antinori 2005 Solaia (#987586, $234.95, 93) and Antinori 2005 Tignanello (#677336, $59.95 for 375ml, 93).
Top California winners include the richly succulent Seghesio Home Ranch 2006 Zinfandel (#70391, $46.95, 91) and the deeply intense 2005 Dominus (#105890, $127.95, 93).
For fans of Oz, more affordable but still luxury priced are Vasse Felix 2006 Shiraz (#686550, $39.95, 92) and Yalumba The Signature 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz (#528356, $49.95, 92), both richly layered fruit bombs.
One of Canada's top Bordeaux styled blends, Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2005 (#626325, $44.95, 91) struts smoked bacon, black cherry and deeply tannic plum depth from the Okanagan Valley.
And for the rest of us, here are my top value discoveries in today's release.
The latest invasion of new bottles on Vintages shelves included 118 wines. While my weekly reviews below zoom in on best values, a handful of luxury wines rated very highly.
Leading off the pack locally are several of the highly touted wines from Le Clos Jordanne made by Burgundian-schooled winemaker Thomas Batchelder in Niagara. His Claystone Terrace 2006 Chardonnay (#56929, $40, rating 91/100) is a smoky, silky peach and golden apple driven beauty. The Claystone Terrace 2006 Pinot Noir (#33951, $40, 90) and Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard 2006 Pinot Noir (#33902, $40, 90) show delicate smoky, earthy wild strawberry nuances.
Two luxury whites stood out. Maison Champy 2006 Pernand-Vergelesses (#8151, $29.95, 91) brims with smoky nuts, pear and silky textured citrus elements. And Moulin-Touchais Coteaux du Layon 1996 (707307, $37.95, 91) is a white chenin blanc from the Loire of legendary status.
In top end reds, my highest rating went to 2005 Opus One (#26310, $359.95, 93) which is loaded with complexity but, like so many icons, has been outrageously overpriced for years. Why not go for the Barone Ricasoli 2004 Casalferro (#469692, $39.95, 92), a super Tuscan full of divine cassis, black olive and blackberry depth at one-tenth the price?
The weird award of the week goes to Café Culture 2008 Pinotage (#72710, $13.95, 87) which is layered with pungent mocha flavours, plus smoky asphalt and plum cake character. Yes, it actually tastes like roasted coffee beans.
D'Arenberg The Hermit Crab 2007 Viognier/Marsanne $17.95 (Australia)
This Rhone style blend from Oz is always a winner. Fresh pear, lime and a complex hint of beeswax candles lead into lively citrus, pear peel and apple flavours. This is a zesty, refreshing, and memorable white.
LCBO # 662775
Food suggestion: King crab legs.
Rating: 90
Wandering Piano 2006 Sauvignon Blanc $15.95 (New Zealand)
While this white is a bit grassier than most Kiwi sauvignon blancs, it's also good value. Aromas of tropical guava, passion fruit and lime lead into gooseberry and grapefruit accented flavours with a lively and racy finish.
LCBO # 91017
Food suggestion: A warm roasted beet salad.
Rating: 89
Fairview Goats Do Roam 2006 Red $12.95 (South Africa)
A Vintages staple which fared wonderfully against a raft of pricier South African reds for value. Smoky blackberry, cedar, plums, blueberry and cherries rule the aromas and flavours. A bit coarse, but highly gulpable as a house red.
LCBO # 718940
Food suggestion: Meat loaf.
Rating: 88
La Berta Solano 2005 Sangiovese Di Romagna Superiore $18.95 (Italy)
Emilia-Romagna is home to fabled Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and aged balsamics. And unknown, but great reds. This inky hued red is layered with blackberry, licorice and cedar power and ripe, almost sweet, black wild fruits.
LCBO # 101139
Food suggestion: Spicy sausage penne.
Rating: 90
Rocca Delle Macie Tenuta Sant' Alfonso 2004 Chianti Classico $22.95 (Italy)
Rocca Delle Macie is a consistent producer of elegant reds. The aromas are lush, with blackberry, cedar, exotic herbs and blueberry along with licorice and vanilla chiming in on the flavours. Two years cellaring will tame the big tannins.
LCBO # 942094
Food suggestion: Rare or medium rare T-bone steak.
Rating: 91
