The Grape Debate
More or less equidistant from Toronto, the wine regions of Niagara and Prince Edward County couldn’t be more different. Here, how the two areas stack up
In Niagara, frozen grapes are picked before dawn to make icewine
| The County’s limestone-rich soil is ideal for pinot noir and chardonnay
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The wine route may have gentle hills and quaint antique-laden villages, but it’s bisected by the
non-postcard-worthy QEW
| The County is a sun-dappled peninsula south of Belleville. Visitors revel in the rural serenity.
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With close to 15,000 acres of vineyards, the region is Canada’s
undisputed powerhouse, producing three quarters of the country’s
grapes. There are 68 VQA-approved wineries.
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The county is still a fledgling territory, as vines weren’t planted in
earnest until after the millennium. Having only attained VQA status in
2007, 14 wineries and counting have its stamp of approval.
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With many vines reaching the 30-year-old mark, Niagara wines are
hitting their prime. Look for light-sipping whites and bolder reds.
Standouts: the prize-winning Flat Rock Cellars 2006 Riesling and Henry
of Pelham 2005 Baco Noir Reserve.
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Harsher winters and an abundance of limestone have produced citrusy
whites and less-than-punchy reds. Try the zesty By Chadsey’s Cairns
2007 Riesling and Bella vineyards 2007 Leon millot / Foch
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Buffered by the escarpment and Lake Ontario, Niagara has the perfect microclimate for making world-class icewine.
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In a word: exclusivity. Because most wineries are small (many under 10
acres), the best vintages are sold only on the premises. Serious
oenophiles can buy up a single lot.
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The bulk of the wineries are sprawling, architect-designed manses where tastings involve an army of bartenders
| Many of the wineries reside in converted barns and rely on rustic charm. Oh, and the guy pouring the tastings? He’s the vintner.
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